I started the year learning to surf in Morocco and I’m finishing it drinking a lot of beer in Cameroon. Between then I’ve crossed 14 countries in Africa and cycled about 12,000km, collecting more than a few stories along the way. Here is a review of some of the highlights, lowlights and other interesting observations from my year on the road. If there is a category you’d like to add please post a comment to let me know. Happy New year.
Most atmospheric place: Harper, Liberia. A town full of war-ravaged buildings, surrounded by beautiful palm-fringed beaches.
Country I’d most like to return to: Nigeria. Forget the bad reputation, Nigeria is the India of Africa in my opinion. Big, overpopulated, ethnically rich, full of positive energy and immensely rewarding for those adventurous enough to explore it.
Worst day of the year: March 13th. I was mugged by 5 men in Dakar, Senegal, who slashed my left wrist and left foot with a machete as I attempted and failed to prevent them taking off with my camera and day-sack. Just in case you’re wondering – the foot slash was minor and I was back on my feet walking fine within a week. The injury to my wrist was much more serious as 4 tendons were severed and required stitching together. There remains a slight stiffness, but no real discomfort. I probably ought to have done and ought to continue doing more physiotherapy as I don’t have the same degree of flexibility in my left wrist as I do in my right, but all things considered recovery has been good. No point in adding the category – ‘Place I’d least like to return to’.
Most popular day of traffic to this website: The day I posted an account of the above. Almost 2500 hits, which goes to show bad news travels quickly.
Worst roads: Leaving Nigeria and entering Cameroon. Steep, full of large rocks, deep gullies and impossible to cycle on.
Most hassle at a border: Crossing from Guinea-Sierra Leone. Immigration told me the border was closed until the country decided on its new President. I’d have been there for months if that was true. I crossed without paying the bribe.
Most beautiful women: Senegal and Ivory Coast. Pity my French is poor.
Least ‘African’ feeling place: Abuja, Nigeria. Clean, well-paved roads and a sterile, but relaxing oasis from the ‘real’ Africa.
Easiest place to get a beer: Cameroon, which might also be one of the World’s easiest place to get a beer, just don’t assume it will be cold.
Hardest place to get a beer: Mauritania, unless you’re lucky enough to be staying with ex-pats who like drinking because there is very little else to do when you live in a city like Nouakchott.
Best place to drink a beer: Overlooking Bakau fish market in The Gambia. Dozens of boats off-loading the day’s catch, which is then sorted and sold beneath you.
Friendliest country to spend time in: Ghana, followed or possibly matched by Sierra Leone. Kindest, most (on the whole) non-aggressive and generally sincerest people in west Africa.
Country with the best beaches: Sierra Leone. Unspoilt, palm-fringed and clean white sands.
Most generous donation to Against Malaria Foundation: £1450 from American International School of Nouakchott, Mauritania. A great effort for a small school.
Best ‘African’ food: Senegal and Ivory Coast: Fresh baguettes, good grilled fish/meat and a Francophone mentality that generally dictates ‘quality’ to be more important than quantity.
Worst ‘African’ food: Sierra Leone and Liberia. The nation seems to survive on rice and cassava leaf with a bit of fish or unidentifiable bush meat thrown in if you’re lucky.
Best ‘on the road’ refreshment/snack: Fresh coconuts along the coast in any country.
Biggest disappointment: Finding that the jungles of Sierra Leone, Liberia and Ivory Coast have mostly been destroyed.
Most frequently asked question: Are you not afraid of wild animals?
Most colourfully dressed people: Togo and Benin. Everyone wears bright wax-cotton cloth.
Best sleeping place: One of many nights out in the Sahara under the stars.
Worst sleeping place: In an abandoned building in the Sahara full of dry human excrement. I was trying to hide from the wind with little success.
Biggest relief: Finding my passport two days after leaving it in a room I stayed in within The Gambia.
Most historically interesting/moving place: Slave Castles of Ghana, particularly at Cape Coast and Elmina. Shame on my ancestors and all other European powers in Africa.
Most used/valued piece of kit: My trustworthy Tilley hat
Least used piece of kit: My Solar charger. I’m rarely away from a power source for long enough to warrant using it, although it’s lightweight and packs easily so I’m holding onto it just in case.
Best new piece of kit: X-mini speaker. Sound beyond size as the logo says and it fits snugly between bottle cage and my handlebar bag. Nothing like a bit of Led Zeppelin blasting out on a tough road.
Best books read: The Poisonwood Bible: Mary Kingsolver, French Lessons in west Africa: Peter Biddlecombe and The Grass is Singing: Doris Lessing.
Most common on-the-road thought: Do I write a book when I finish this journey? There are a few stories/characters I don’t write about here.













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The Gostehighsandlows. Much more interesting than the Oscars.
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Have been really enjoying following your journey – what an adventure. All the best for 2011!
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All the best for New Year Pete.
Have you got supplies of SALT to use for bartering when in the wilds of DRC.
I used salt when i went through and this was treasured like gold. Get some if you can.
Cheers. Grant.
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Peter Reply:
January 6th, 2011 at 10:18 am
@grant sim, No I don’t yet. Is it really that valuable. When did you travel through and remind me of your route again? I’m receiving a fair bit of negative advice
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/sub-saharan-africa/across-drc-tell-me-its-54509
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Peter Reply:
January 7th, 2011 at 12:55 am
@Peter, Gidday Pete, I hope this finds you well and fit.
My information is 25 years old.
I travelled this route via Algeria, Niger, Burkina, Ghana, Cammeroon, CAR and into DRC. The route we took in our landrover was the exact same course as your intended route.
We got to Bangui, camped and swam at Boali falls and headed south. We camped at the border for two weeks as the border had closed. Sorry to get side tracked.
I am very interested in your trip as almost NO ONE has taken this route since the border was shut around 1991. We went through in 1986.
My point though is we stocked up on salt as we were informed of its importance in CAR so we bought a couple of kilos in Bangui. We didnt use our Zaires (Money) at all for the entire two months it took to cross the DRC or Zaire as it was known then. We bought all our fruit and veg from the villages which are there but cant see. If you stop in the bush and their appears to be no one around then look over your shoulder because there will be some one there.
I found the locals really friendly, very welcoming and helpful when crossing the rough bridges.
Sorry to go on but i thought you might want a little feedback.
I am sure the places you will travel through will not have changed a great deal since we went through all those years ago.
My only advice for you befor you enter this country is to talk to the locals and any person who has information on the way ahead for you. If you have any hesitation then YOUR safety is of the utmost importance. You are alone without backup but for all that i have great confidence in African people but only you can determine this.
All the best mate and Bonne Chance!
Grant.
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Peter Reply:
January 7th, 2011 at 1:01 am
Thanks Grant. I decided to copy and share this on the website. Interesting for me to look back at and for others to see. Salt it is then – perhaps better than sugar, at least when I think about the times ants have found sugar in my panniers. Another interesting route east from Kisangani is being brought to my attention. More on that in subsequent posts. Currently listening to BBC World Service and hearing of villagers fleeing villages in South Kivu following rebel attacks that involved the raping of some 30 women. I have a route that avoids the Kivus.
Hi Peter,
Happy New Year! Good luck for 2011 on the bike! Ur stories, ur picures are great. Keep the epic journey ongoing! Cheers Falk
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Hi Peter, a happy and safe new year to you! Wonderful story you are making as you go along – for your book you will only need to fill in the really juicy bits between your regular blogs, the book will really flow (or free wheel!). I’m really sorry that Senegal, other than its women, gave you such a bad experience. Recently, however, the cases or reports of crime here seem to have reduced. All the very best for for 2011 and I would bet that you would be very near or actually at the most beautiful part of Africa – the Cape this time next year!Bon Voyage! Colin.
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Peter Reply:
January 2nd, 2011 at 9:39 pm
Good to hear from you. Dakar and Senegal remain the curse of west Africa. Just spend the afternoon discussing CAR and DRC with a South African overlander – all very exciting/daunting as you might imagine. A few more stories there for sure. Keep in contact and best wishes through 2011
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Wonderful post Peter! Here’s hoping for a report of similar joys this time next year (apart from that bit with the machetes…)
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Really enjoyed reading your blog so far – some great, fresh descriptions of places. I can only hope for more photos of the topography you pass through, and, of course, the people in it.
Further updates on your equipment survival/renewal/breakdown/repair is also of practical help and interest.
Happy New year, and a safe journey for 2011.
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great write up as normal..
all the best for the new year……
keep them wheels rolling……
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Pete, I LOVE your blog and the wonderful photos!!!! Someday I hope to visit Nigeria. I spent about two weeks in Bagamoyo, Tanzania in 1993 while learning to play the Ilimba and LOVED
it – the places, the people… Blessings, health and happiness now and in 2011.
Love and laughter,
Judy
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Lovely 2010-update, Pete! Surely, you’ll write that/those books whenever time seems right. Your instinct/intuition will tell you more/all about that once you’re back home.
Enjoy everything and keep travelling slowly. You do a beautiful job out there!
May 2011 find you happy, safe, and content.
- A friend from the roads
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Yeah on the speakers! I picked up a pair while traveling, too. Makes all the difference. I also read the Poisonwood Bible while in Africa… I still think about the scene with the ants!
Wishing you safety, happiness and health in 2011.
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Happy new year Peter! Hopefully another year full of enriching experiences (less the violence bit). I am curious about a few other categories, if you have the time:
* Country where you were most asked for bribes
* Easiest country to camp in the wild
* Most interesting thing you’ve learned
Thanks and all the best for the journey!
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Peter Reply:
January 1st, 2011 at 2:47 am
@Tiago, Good questions: 1) The bribe-concept is an interesting one in Africa. As the trip has progressed I’ve questioned in more detail what exactly constitutes a bribe.
So you have a lonely/bored chap manning a check-post who asks if you have something for him in a hopeful but uninterrogative manner. You reply ‘not today’, or some similar response, and with a little more sparring at the roadside you’re on your way. Is this this a bribe? There are many nuances to the whole thing, but to answer in truth (as in how many ‘official’ people stopped me to ask for something) Nigeria wins for the frequency, without the seriousness, whilst Guinea wins for the actual seriousness (3 times I was met with a hostility that I couldn’t judge the outcome of) although with the country being Francophone I’m not so good at reading the game. I have a feeling that CAR and DRC will earn themselves an award in this category. If only I had a special medal to give out on such occasions, which read ‘distinction/merit/pass for being a corrupt arsehole of my country’. They would love it.
2) Depends on the time of year. ‘Good/sensible’ wild camping is not all that easy in much of west Africa because land is either cultivated or overgrown with vegetation. This means camping comfortably away from people is not all that easy, although it does depend on what roads you take. It is much easier/safer/more convenient to cycle into a village or settlement and ask for a place to camp (not only will you be shown a cleared area but you will be close to a water supply for washing) I am referring here to countries south from the Sahara.
3) Tough question to answer: Can’t think at 2.45am on 1st Jan 2011. Perhaps never to trust a local when he/she tells you the distance to the next town is ‘not far’!
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Beautiful year-end summary Peter!
We highly suggest a visit back to Nigeria again! :)
Our guest room is open any time.
We are eager to see where this next year takes you.
Assuming your beer-o-clock has already begun, enjoy the close of 2010!
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First of all:a Healthy,Happy New Year.Secondly:you are an inspiration for a less extreme cycletourer like I am and third of all I’m glad that the 10,000 Pounds mark has been pass for the New Year.
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Happy new year Peter – I look forward to reading your continuing adventures.
Miles
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Peter you’re an absolute star. Your journey/adventure is fantastic to follow. Happy New Year and all the best for 2011. Cheers Neal.
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